It just wipes on, dries overnight and doesn’t require a sprayer. That's some gorgeous grain on that poplar! Now, Poplar is an absolutely perfect choice if your plans are to prime and paint your wood. The rags must be disposed of carefully in view of their ability to spontaneously ignite and cause a fire. Do you have a preferred brand/supplier? Again beware of your rags, spontaneous combustion is not normally explosive, it just happens after you leave the shop in most cases. It's actually a pretty similar process to tung oil. Please don’t ask how I know that. Once finished with 220, I like to go again over the surface with 320 grit and then blow off the dust well. I think any oil-based finish will really bring out the grain but I like the look of this table finished using Waterlox: This is the best looking poplar build I've ever come across (not mine): http://imgur.com/a/S6nxc. I would expect a good oil finish to take two weeks to properly build up. If there are tool marks or grain tearout, I will back up to 120 grit. seat, legs and spindles? Poplar, for example, doesn't always accept the typical oil based stains (such as Minwax) very evenly and can turn out blotchy. The name is often used by paint and varnish manufacturers as a generic name for any wood-finishing product that contains the real tung oil or provides a finish that resembles the finish obtained with tung oil. Most polymerized tung oils are sold mixed with mineral spirits to make them easier to work with. I have seen folks do multiple coats in one day and, while I appreciate their effort, it really dissolves the previous coats and thus takes longer than just letting it dry. I receive a lot of questions on finishing wood, so I thought I’d try to give a few pointers for folks who only wish to finish one or two projects without buying a whole commercial shop set up for finishing. Oily rags commonly start fires and should be handled with great care. Heating tung oil to about 500 °F (260 °C)[13] in an oxygen-free environment will substantially increase the viscosity and film-forming quality of the product. Most of it will soak in, and then I wipe it all off nearly dry.

I'm building a bed out of poplar which will be receiving a generous application of espresso. I really like the Windsor chair. I don’t really worry about a little fine dust because the finish will be wiped off again anyway. /r/woodworking is your home on reddit for furniture, toys, tools, wood, glue, and anything else that has to do with woodworking as a hobby or profession. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. The electric ones work fine as well as the air powered ones, Velcro back or adhesive back all seem to work fine. You do not want to cut through the finish back to bare wood. Please make sure you are doing it safely and carefully with fresh air and wearing whatever Personal Protective Equipment you need. Almost all instructions I see for oiling or staining poplar seem to assume that the wood looks ugly and you want to cover it up. Dilute it with mineral oil, maybe? you can make it your self 50% boiled linseed oil and 50% oil based polyurethane and add some mineral spirit to thin it. Naphtha works well in spray-on applications in well-ventilated studios. Wow! [14], China wood oil; lumbang oil; tung oil paraformaldehyde; tungmeal; tungoel, Except where otherwise noted, data are given for materials in their. It’s easy to use but requires a large compressor to operate it.) Dilutents range from traditional spirits of turpentine to any of the new citrus-based thinners to naphtha. The three common oils used for waterproofing wood are linseed, walnut, and tung. Agreed with your first statement - my first thought was "best stain is a dark one to hide it!" When I sand, I set up a work surface right in front of a nice (powerful) exhaust fan. If you want more of a satin sheen, then when you have done 4-5 coats and it’s nice and shiny, you can rub down the gloss with a bit of steel wool (#0000) and then polish with a cotton rag. Their main down-side is that they create a lot of ultra-fine dust. Used mostly for finishing and protecting wood, after numerous coats, the finish can even look plastic-like.

Press J to jump to the feed. Primary coats may be laid down at a 1:1 oil-to-thinner ratio, and successive layers, if not absorbed into the wood, at higher solvent to oil concentrations. I hope this is helpful to you all, and I will be trying to do some more of these coming soon. but that piece is nice.

Now you can re-oil just like the first coat. The product packaging will usually clearly state if it is pure tung oil. Tung oil or China wood oil is a drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii). [4] The word "tung" is etymologically derived from the Chinese 桐 tóng. So to get on with the how-to part: I generally plane or scrape my pieces with card or cabinet scrapers prior to finish sanding. When applied in many fine/thinner coats over wood, tung oil slowly cures to a matte/light satin look with slight golden tint.

Please submit links to how-to pages and videos, pictures of beautiful and amazing pieces you made for us to admire, or help you finish. This is where most folks go wrong with it, they don’t wipe it dry enough and any thick spots won’t dry right. An oil finish penetrates the wood fibers and hardens inside the wood so the surface of the wood is still what your fingers feel, and however fine you sand at this point will determine how nice your finish will be. "Minor oil crops - Individual monographs", "Process for stabilizing and refining tung oil and product thereof", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tung_oil&oldid=985967158, Chemicals that do not have a ChemSpider ID assigned, Articles containing unverified chemical infoboxes, Articles with unsourced statements from May 2017, Articles with unsourced statements from October 2015, Articles with unsourced statements from August 2013, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 29 October 2020, at 00:52. Tung oil hardens upon exposure to air (through polymerization), and the resulting coating is transparent and has a deep, almost wet look. Oak, on the other hand, stains very well. My old standby finish was Deft Oil, which was great, but they stopped making it so I have been looking at some other options. How about shellac or water based products or both. At this point I’m hoping to get the table finished by the end of March. Tung oil is typically found as a mix in most commercial products. Let the piece dry again overnight before re-coating.

Cookies help us deliver our Services. Currently one of my favorite finishes is tung oil. Rags soaked with tung oil can spontaneously combust (burst into flame). Thank you Dave, I have been using Minwax brand Tung Oil. One point on steel wool is that if the oil is sticky at all in the corners, nooks and crannies, the metal wool fragments and bits will stick in there and are difficult to get out. Tung oil is almost colorless and won’t darken the wood as much as something with boiled linseed oil in it, but you can always stain it if you need a darker shade. [citation needed]. Tung oil is very popular today because of two properties: first, it is a naturally derived substance. The traditional technique for applying pure tung oil is to dilute the oil 1:1 with solvent, then apply a succession of very thin films with a soft, lint-free cloth such as tee-shirt cotton. I'd be thinking along the same lines. [3] During the Song Dynasty, tung oil was used for waterproofing on ships. Ulrich Poth, "Drying Oils and Related Products" in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry Wiley-VCH, Weinheim, 2002. It has been a bit nippy the last couple days but we are thawing out fine. I generally don’t stain—I simply prefer natural wood color and grain patterns. There's lots of tutorials online about how to apply it. [citation needed] Limonene and D-limonene are less toxic alternatives for mineral spirits. I also outfitted it with a coil hose so that the hose stays out of the way. They are fast, light-weight and do a nice job. One of my students told me that ” Experience is something you have just AFTER you needed it”.
If there seems to be dust stuck on, I will wipe it with a clean dry rag. They are especially sensitive to autoxidation, which encourages cross linking of neighbouring chains, hence hardening of the base resin. I’m going to drive up from Austin one day to see it, I hope. No, it didn’t snow like this here, but I did take the picture, and I was chilly so I thought it might be fitting. Thanks for the posts, Mark. After the finish is dry, I sand lightly by hand with 320 grit sandpaper. Tung oil is very popular today because of two properties: first, it is a naturally derived substance. Personally, I'd go with tru-oil. That's some gorgeous grain on that poplar! This technique brings out the deepest color of the wood while maintaining a matte finish. This is where most folks go wrong with it, they don’t wipe it dry enough and any thick spots won’t dry right. [citation needed] Second, after it cures (5 to 30 days, weather/temperature related), the result is a very hard and easily repaired finish, so it is used on boat decks and now on floors. I personally use an air powered RO by Dynabrade. On the first coat of oil (while wearing gloves) I like to soak the wood well with the Tung Oil and let it set for about 10-15 min. Raw tung oil tends to dry to a fine, wrinkled finish; the English name for this is gas checking; this property was used to make wrinkle finishes, usually by adding excess cobalt drier. This thinning vehicle evaporates within 15 to 20 minutes. It is claimed to be less susceptible to mould than linseed oil.[11]. It seems to be winter again here for a few days. A final coat is applied fairly thickly (the oil will smooth itself into a glass-like coating) and allowed to dry for two to three days. available in a wide variety of colors and tones. I got a board with a good color and a fiery-looking grain that I really like (pic that doesn't quite do it justice), and would like to bring it out more. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the woodworking community. By “lightly” I mean light and quick, take about 3 minutes to hand sand over a whole chair or nightstand. I was thinking tung oil maybe? By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies.
Tung oil is the "oil" mentioned in the oil-paper umbrella,[citation needed] which is used to protect the paper from getting wet, and to make the umbrella waterproof. I remember the round one that Frank built a few years ago, and I thought that was a huge undertaking, but this thing is really something. it a perpetual wet look that highly accentualizes the grain of the wood

First and foremost, please be aware that almost all finishing involves some chemicals and fumes and the waste can be a fire hazard. Is it solid oak? The oil-paper umbrella is the traditional umbrella used in China, Japan, and other countries in the sinosphere, and was brought to Western countries through the Silk Road. When I build drawers I usually use poplar, birch, maple...whatever is cheap and handy.

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